Recurring Motif

         As some of you might have noticed, I've largely avoided the topic of Fashion Week so far this season. Frankly, I've been totally disillusioned with the industry lately, and I've always found Spring/Summer shows to be less interesting than Fall/Winter. The collections shown in New York and London did little to dissolve my bias, unfortunately (I've been conciously avoiding Style.com and have yet to see the Paris and Milan shows), but there were a few exceptions. One of them was Marchesa.  

     After the first few looks, it became clear that Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig are ready to expand the vision of the brand. Although still featuring very feminine draping, gauzy fabrics, and plenty of embellishment, the silhouette this season was certainly more varied (hello, pants!), suggesting the designers' interest in developing a business that isn't exclusively evening wear.

     Don't get me wrong....there were PLENTY of pretty dresses....

Laser cut satin is a beautiful, modern take on traditional lace....

Laser cut organza as well

I love the layers of translucent hand-painted tulle.

     There is no question that this collection is jaw-dropping-ly beautiful. And it certainly signifies a more elegant directional take on a theme than I have seen from Marchesa in the past (Resort 2011's African inspired collection was at times awkwardly literal).   

     But viewing this collection brings pleasure and pain in equal measure to the fashion enthusiast............Frankly, it's a little too referential of Alexander McQueen's fall 2008 show for my comfort.......

Marchesa

vs. 

 

Alexander McQueen

Marchesa

vs.

Alexander Mcqueen

  

Marchesa

vs.

    

Alexander McQueen

  

Marchesa

vs.

Alexander McQueen

                                      

Marchesa

vs.

Alexander McQueen

                                

       There are MANY parallels that can be drawn....you can even compare the hairstyles and head jewelry. And even apart from the specific pieces that I've singled out, there are many more subtle similarities that when compiled make it impossible to not see the connection.

Marchesa

vs.

Alexander McQueen

       In the season following the tragic suicide of the great Alexander McQueen, it isn't surprising that some admiring designers would choose to remember him in their own work. However, this collection seems so heavy handed in it's reference that, to me, it verges on plagiarism. The collections are by no means identical, but I can't imagine that the Marchesa designers developed their Spring 2011 show without some direct cross referencing. 

     Yet, there hasn't been much talk about that on the main fashion review sites - Style.com in particular says nothing at all about the McQueen connection, which is particularly odd, because they always seem to be the FIRST to point out designer influenced motifs. So, I decided to hear what the designers themselves had to say about their influences for the collection. I saw this interview with Keren Craig:

     Craig states that, "European aesthetic meets the East" set the tone for this Marchesa collection - and that tag line might as well have been ripped directly from a review of Alexander McQueen fall 2008. Sarah Mower commented that Mcqueen designed the collection "...with images of Queen Victoria, the Duke of Wellington, and the Indian Empire running through his mind."

     Of course, it is not unusual for designers to find inspiration in similar content. But comparing these two collections has left me feeling that, at best, Marchesa just didn't come up with anything new to say about the "Orientalist Period" - or, at worst, took a shortcut through McQueen's already beautifully explored territory.

Marchesa

vs.

Alexander McQueen

 I can't deny that this is a GORGEOUS collection - the fabrics are exquisite, and the details of embellishment and draping are truly couture in it's most lovely form. In that sense, I am glad that Marchesa is taking up the McQueen mantel - it's a kind of ethereal beauty that much of the fashion world feared lost after Alexander's death. So it's a joy to see it so wonderfully alive in this collection, even when the spectacular McQueen showmanship can't be replaced. But where does a designer find the line between inspiration and intellectual property infringement?

     The only other fashion writer I've seen make this connection so far is Siobhan Barrett, who blogs for Lulus.com (Read her take on it here). She sees the parallels (though not with the same specificity - for me, it came down to one particular McQueen collection), but has a very different feeling about the end result. I really disagree with her opinion on the brand defining element she describes. Although this collection, viewed in a vacuum, does signify a new direction for Marchesa, how can it truly set them apart if it's not original?

    Again, these clothes are beautiful, and I'd probably lose the ability to draw breath if someone told me I could wear one of these dresses (especially that knee-length black painted tulle number I posted above). But to earn the title of "Designer's Best Collection, " or even "One of the Best of the Season" (that keeps being tossed around), Marchesa needs to show me something truly fresh, thoughtful, and original. 

     Alexander McQueen's Fall 2008 collection had the goods, the show, and the back story (read more about it here) that made it so stunningly out-of-this-world. Unfortunately, Marchesa only gave us the abridged version.